San Rafael Valley, AZ ~~ Photo by Bill Haas

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

JUKE JOINT FESTIVAL, CLARKSVILLE, MS

CROSSROADS
The Blues Highway, #61, links New Orleans to Chicago. Legendary bluesmen left the cotton fields (along Highway 49) and headed north on Highway 61 to seek fame and fortune in St Louis or Chicago.  I wove my way from Natchez to Clarksdale following The Blues Highway and the Great River Road, and arrived at the Crossroads in Clarksdale, a Delta town that claims to be "ground zero" for birth of the Delta Blues, just in time for the Juke Joint Festival. Sure this revolutionary music style has changed and evolved, and the players are now wired, but some of the old masters are still very much alive and kicking ass.  It was my good fortune to hear and photograph some of them.  

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REVEREND PEYTON'S BIG DAMN BAND...
...consists of his brother on drums and his wife on washboard and everything else. Check out her steel nails!  I start with Reverend Peyton because his guitar was made in the 30's, making it one of the oldest I saw during my visit.  
Reverend Peyton is as much an entertainer as a musician and likes to punctuate his songs by swinging his leg and kicking the cymbals.  Great fun, and he never misses!




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ROBERT "BILBO" WALKER...
...besides being one snazzy dresser (don't you just LOVE his shoes!), this dude ended his set by playing his guitar one-handed.  Kid you not!  Click to enlarge the last two photos if you don't believe me.  There's high-octane music coming out of that box!




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BIG GEORGE BROCK...
...master of the harp, 77 years young, started playing in the cotton fields with Muddy Waters when he was eight -- the real deal.  But I was busy watching monkeys on dogs down the street  and missed seeing him play.  Wish I could clone myself.



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RED'S LOUNGE...
...call it seedy, call it authentic; Red doesn't care.  You can get beer and Bar-B-Q with the fabulous music, and the cover was only $7.00.  Beer is the only thing Red serves, and he doesn't care if you bring your own wine!

Jammin' Red's
T-MODEL FORD...
...is in his 80's but not exactly sure how FAR into his 80's!  This fabulous bluesman played his guitar (his "Black Nanny") for FOUR hours non stop, pausing only to nip at the JD in his flask while the drummers changed places.  The young man who looks about 11 or 12 actually just turned 12 and is Red's grandson.  He was apparently born with sticks in his hand but had to quit this gig at midnight because "he has school tomorrow"!!



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GROUND ZERO BLUES CLUB...
...because it's generally agreed Clarksdale is where it all began, this is Morgan Freeman's enterprising paean to Delta Blues.  Freeman and his partner converted this century-old railroad depot into a really, really popular, barn-sized juke joint with a full bar, a down home menu and local (mostly) blues music.  It was here I was treated to...



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SUPER CHIKAN AND THE FIGHTING COCKS...
...huh?  His backup band is all girls!!  With his daughter on the drums.  Aside from the exuberant, danceable blues music, Super Chikan's guitars are works of art! Check them out in the "Guitar" segment below.  And the musical rapport between Super Chikan and La La was especially captivating.





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AND THEN THERE'S LA LA...
...By day, La La is a helpful, low-key, knowledgeable clerk at Cat Head Blues Music and Folk Art store.
By night, La La is a fiend!  She rips, slashes and churns her keyboard either as a solo attraction or partnered with Super Chikan and his Fighting Cocks!  Either way, you get your money's worth!




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GIT BOXES FROM AROUND TOWN

T-Model Ford's Black Nanny



Super Chikan's play things






More around town; they were everywhere!








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I finally learned how to create a link in Blogger! If you're interested, here are some "You Tube" videos for some of the local Delta Blues Bands I mentioned here. CAVEAT: While this type of music may not thrill you, it's still pretty entertaining to watch these guys with the sound turned down!!!!


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